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089: Sremski Karlovci+ Novi Sad. 2012/7/29

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[More of Novi Sad and the neighboring Sremski Karlovci = photo album]

Today the key phrase is probably physical discomfort, even though the discomfort isn’t that prominent.  In any case, let’s make this entry short.

Boris set an alarm at 8, but in any case I was up before that.  The sofa wasn’t comfy, but I made it work by lying on a certain point so that my back gets a bit more support than it would have.

Boris offered breakfast.  By breakfast he meant a glass of apple juice blended with berries, and a cup of Turkish coffee.  And by Turkish coffee, I mean Turkish coffee and his smoking (“to go with it”).  In order not to inhale more of cigarette smoke and not to hear more of his repetition of his not being able to find the schedule to Fruska Gora, I proposed to take the earlier bus.  As early as yesterday I was already telling him a thousand times (with a smile and casualness in tone) that I really don’t have to go to Fruška Gora, but sometimes some people won’t listen to anything other than what they want to hear.  (And yet he kept saying that if I hire a taxi it probably costs 35 Euros, since one kilometer costs how much, and blah blah blah blah blah…)

By 9 it was hot.  The bus fare is expensive, since it’s almost the price paid for the taxi from the citadel to home.  Seriously, why?

Sremski Karlovci is a small place.  Maybe it’s charming, but no more than that.  At least I had the guidance of Boris (very unsmiling; why?) so I didn’t have to try to find my way under the blazing sun.  We had to wait for a service to finish so we could go into a church to see its very glittery interior; in the meantime Boris sent me off to walk around and he himself stayed at a café.  I also checked with the tourist info there to get a map (just to make sure I don’t miss anything) and asked about the monasteries in Fruška Gora.  The lady there said that a taxi drive visiting one monastery costs probably 10 Euros, two 20, and so on.  Fruška Gora itself is just a bunch of hills to me, which holds no attraction to me, no matter how freaking much it means to Serbians.  As for the monasteries, I will obviously see bigger ones elsewhere, so that’s it.  And i really don’t need to hear any more blah-ing of can’t’s from Boris.

After that we returned home.  We stopped at a market place for some veggies, and I lay down on the sofa to rest for a while, since I didn’t feel very well.  I thought it was the combination of heatstroke and smelling of someone’s smoking, but I didn’t say anything.  I fell asleep for a while, and when I woke up I felt better, although relatively weaker than usual. (The cafe below then had some wedding celebration — it was very interesting to listen to how they played the music and all.)  Boris was at least attentive enough not to wake me up, and he prepared “very light” lunch, which includes boiled potatoes, a kind of boiled white bean pods, and boiled zucchinis with garlic bits.  He was rather concerned whether I disliked them, and probably didn’t believe it when I said I liked them.  Honestly I like light food.

After that I decided to go out to see Vojvodina Museum, which Boris recommends, and the citadel, so I could take my time walking all the way up there and take photos.  Boris repeatedly (“repeatedly”) reminded me (a) be careful not to fall; (b) be careful not to go down from other parts of the citadel lest I get lost; (c) maybe don’t go with someone if someone offers to take me see part of the (unregulated and un-furbished) “catacombs” – I think he meant “underground tunnels.”

On the way to the museum I went to an LP-recommended dessert place to get ice cream.  (They don’t understand me when I asked whether they have wi-fi.)  The two scoops cost 88RSD, I showed them a 500-RSD bill, and the lady asked me whether I had something smaller.  I said no, licking the already dripping ice cream.  Then she waved her hand saying it’s “ok,” meaning I didn’t have to pay.  Obviously she’d rather offer the ice cream for free than to break the bill.

The museum was a bore.  English explanations exist on printed copies, which I took to read, sitting down.  Actually were it not for my visit, the single clerk there would not have had to turn on the lights.

And when I was about to head to the citadel, the weather suddenly turned very cloudy in a rather ominous way; there were even some somewhat threatening lightnings.

And some gales of strong winds appeared from nowhere.  There was actually a movie set on the street, and that, together with lots of outdoor seats of various cafes were blown away.  I found the café (with pastries) Boris recommended, and as soon as I sat down on an outdoor seat leaves and many things else flew away in front of my eyes.  Their wi-fi also doesn’t work.  I walked to the other side of the pedestrian zone, only to find that the indoor section is smoking-allowed.  I fled again, eventually to a pizza-fastfood place with loud music.  The waiter who speaks English was very nice and accommodating.  Had a phone call here.

I didn’t return until probably 7.30pm, partly because of the stormy rain.

Originally Boris invited me to his friends’ concert (acoustic guitars) at the synagogue, but I already privately decided I would leave Novi Sad tomorrow, and I also need to regain my strength by having more rest, so I declined.  As he told me we needed to “plan for tomorrow,” I told him my plan, which was to leave.  He said that it’s easier for him anyway, since he suddenly has some work stuff that he has to cope with.  I then lay down to sleep.  He said he would have to wait for some Skype phone calls, and I told him he can do anything he wants to.  Well, that doesn’t include smoking, but I didn’t say anything, and he couldn’t be stopped anyway.  Actually before I went to bed, he lit a cigarette, and I subsequently clung to the opened window for quite some time, basking myself in the continuous breeze of an evening that just had some rain.

I was waken up by quite some of his phone call talking, and my neck hurt a bit, but everything was fine to me.

7/29記帳:(1RSD = 0.317TWD;1TWD = 3.184RSD;1EUR = 117.91RSD)
公車:120*2
水:44
博物館:100
義麵+ 咖啡:400
優格:105
總計:889SD,約280TWD

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